![]() ![]() For additional information, see our “Lavender 101” flyer at (scroll to the bottom of the home page). (Pruning of lavender is optional, but if undertaken, should be done in the springtime only - no more than 1/3 the length of each branch).ĭ. Also, do not prune lavender plants in the fall, except for cosmetic removal of old flower stalks. Plants need time to establish roots prior to winter. ![]() Do not move lavender plants past the 15th of September in northern climates (especially very young ones). Lavender is NOT an indoor plant it needs to be planted outside. For the most part, lavender thrives on neglect.Ĭ. As long as your lavender plants have a sunny, well-drained location, they will be fine. Fertilizing lavender is optional they’ll do just fine if you forget. Repeat this process once per year in the spring. By way of a fertilizer, once you have planted your starter plants in the ground, you can then sprinkle one tablespoon each of a time-released, all-purpose fertilizer and if you have clay soil, also a tablespoon of pelletized lime. You can let your lavender fully blossom from the second year on.ī. This will encourage vigorous root growth, as well as new branches will sprout from within the core of the plant, giving it a richer, fuller appearance. Instead, pinch off the top part of each branch or blossom head. Seedlings will develop into hardier, more attractive plants if you do not allow them to blossom the first year. After all danger of frost has passed, the seedlings can be planted in the ground in well-drained soil with full sun.Ī. Start by putting them outside in a shady area then increase the amount of time in the sun each day, but bring them inside at night. (6) FINAL STEP: Once your seedlings are about 3 inches (7.5 cm) tall and daytime temperatures consistently remain above freezing, you can then “harden them” by placing them outside for increasing amounts of exposure to the outdoor environment. Once your plants have six or more leaves, it’s time to put them into a small pot about 2” (5 cm) in diameter, filled with fresh potting soil. If no such location is available and you do not have a growing light, then a third option is to place a fluorescent light above the seedlings and allow them to sit in the artificial light for at least 16 hours a day. (4) GIVE SPROUTED SEEDS PLENTY OF LIGHT. 16-18 hours per day under a growing light is ideal, but if you do not have a growing light, then after the seeds sprout, move the seed trays to a location which receives plenty of direct sunlight. Soil that is too damp and cool will invite fungus to grow, and fungus will destroy your seeds. ![]() Keep the growing soil damp but not soggy, and water the seeds in the morning so that the soil can dry during the day. We recommend putting those seed trays on a heating pad, available from most garden supply centres or mail order. (2) SOIL TEMPERATURE IS CRITICAL: For an optimum germination rate, keep the soil temperature around 21 degrees (C). Gently press the seeds into the soil (no deeper than 1/8 inch). If planting in a division-free container, space the seeds 1/2 to 1 inch (1.27 to 2.54 cm) apart. If using a plastic seedling tray, plant one seed per slot. Never use soil taken from your garden, as it may contain pathogens or parasites which can kill fragile seedlings. We like Pro-Mix Organic Seed-Starting Mix. Use a commercially-sterilized soil especially formulated for starting seeds (pH neutral between 6.7 and 7.3 is best). (1) 6-12 WEEKS FROM FROST-FREE PLANTING TIME: Sow seeds in trays indoors about 6-12 weeks before the traditional outdoor planting time (in northern climates, plant seeds indoors roughly late March or any time in the month of April). ![]()
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